Organic Wines, Biodynamic Farming & Sulfites in wine

By Damon Adam Lobato

Recently, Naches Heights, Washington applied for its own AVA (American Viticultural Area).  The proposed appellation is 13,254 acres in size and will be newest Washington State AVA.  Currently, 40 acres are being farmed organically and biodynamically in Naches Heights.  If approved, Naches Heights will enjoy bragging rights as the country’s only all-organic appellation.  The Tasting Room Yakima at Wilridge Vineyard are now at the forefront of it all getting asked the following questions daily. “What is biodynamic farming? What are organic wines?  What are sulfites in wine?” And this blog is an attempt to clarify the differences.

What is Biodynamic Farming? Biodynamic is a method of farming that treats the vineyard as a living organism.  Based on a philosophy created by Austrian scientist Rudolf Steiner in 1924, who was also the founder of the Waldorf school system, Steiner created the “spiritual science” of anthroposophy, which was to understand science through the spiritual world.

Because the soil is treated like a living organism, it is therefore necessary to build its “immune system” and maintain its health.  Since pesticides and chemicals tend to deplete the nutrients of the soil, biodynamic methods ban the use of both.  Instead, following lunar and cosmic patterns, homeopathic mixtures called “preparations” are used to nurture and protect the soil from pests and disease.  For example, Preparation 500 calls for Cow manure fermented in a cow horn, which is then buried and over-winters in the soil.  In short, the goal of biodynamic farming is to be in tune with the totality of life forces affecting the plant.

There are two main factors that make biodynamic farming distinctly different from organic farming.  The first is the use of a complex system of herbal sprays and composting techniques, known as “preparations.”  The second is the timing of the operations on the vineyard, which is strictly regulated by the movements of the spheres.  Demeter (www.demeter-usa.org) is the international organization that certifies and monitors biodynamic farmers around the globe.

What are Organic wines? Organic wines defined by the USDA are “wines made from organically grown grapes and without any added sulfites.”  The grapes are grown naturally without the aid of pesticides or chemicals.  In order for this method to be successful, the farmer must maintain the soil through regular plowing and applications of organic composts.  They also encourage biodiversity as well as cover crops to help create a stable environment.  Certified Organic producers must follow rules and regulations in addition to a certification process administered by Organic certifiers.

What are sulfites and how are they used? Sulfites occur naturally in wine during the fermentation process, as well as occur naturally in your body and many other foods.  In wine production, the addition of sulfites act as a preservative used to prevent oxidation, bacterial spoilage, and help stabilize the wine.

Wine is similar to a cut apple that rapidly turns brown; to prevent an apple from browning you add a little bit of lemon juice.  The lemon juice does not change the flavor of the apple it just preserves the apple from breaking down quickly.  Sulfites are the same for wine; they are wine’s version of lemon juice.

When a winemaker chooses not to use sulfites in the wine (organically made wines) they run the risk of having the taste and flavors vary from bottle to bottle and a decreased shelf life, quickly moving from fruity, to nutty, to cardboard, and then to vinegar.

A wine without added sulfites is going to be more fragile, lose its aromas and color, and eventually become muddy and cloudy.  If too many sulfites are added it can affect the aroma and taste of a wine as well. The wine will smell and taste like burnt matches; harsh, bitter and pungent.  Too many sulfites also cover errors in winemaking, similar to the use of too much oak treatment; the key is balance.

Damon Lobato is a sommelier and onsite manager for Tasting Room Yakima.

Wine Waiter

By Damon Lobato

Yakima Valley is and has been so rich and abundant with agriculture and viticulture over the last century that it makes one think our local eateries would encourage the use of more locally farmed foods and local wines on their menus.  Which, to some degree, is seen throughout the area .  Now when it comes to restaurant staff, who should be the face of Yakima Valley’s agricultural industry and restaurant culture, we as a community of restaurants, I think, struggle.  The simple task of opening a bottle of wine is really what I would like to blog about today.  After countless dining experiences in Yakima, I have yet to experience a restaurant or wait person who knows how to open or serve a bottle of wine properly. I just want one to represent Yakima, its agriculture, viticulture and restaurants in a good old fashion and respectful manner – “proper restaurant etiquette”.   It is as simple as opening a bottle of wine the correct way. I am not implying the need for over the top and stuffy service, but I might mention that we are in Yakima Valley… The same Yakima Valley that has become a world recognized AVA (American Viticulture Area). The same Yakima Valley that has demanded attention for it’s wines and vineyards and unique terroir. If world class wines are produced in our region, shouldn’t we offer world class service as well? Or at least decent service?  Such as simply opening a bottle of wine.

So here it is….

Keep it simple, have patience and build confidence.  These are the essentials you need before opening a bottle of wine.

• Mis en place – “putting in place”, a philosophy used in every kitchen or dining room to refer to the organizing of each facet of the restaurant’s environment. Each restaurant employee should know this and practice it as part of their culinary and service religion.
• Serviette – white linen or service towel properly folded and kept on hand, used to wipe any drips during wine and Champagne service or used to dampen the sound of a popping cork.
• Wine Key/Corkscrew – used to open bottle of wine.
• Polished wine glasses – when available, use the proper stemware for each varietal (yes, both white and red wines should be poured and served into their appropriate stemware)

1. Make sure the wine is at its proper temperature.  WHITE WINES, depending on the varietal, should be served at 45 degrees to 50 degrees F, such as:  Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Riesling. RED WINES should be served at 57 degrees to 61 degrees F, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah ect..

2. Present the bottle of wine to the person who ordered it from the right side.  Repeat back to them the producer, region, varietal and vintage.  Keep the label facing the customer who ordered it at all times. 

3. After ensuring the bottle of wine is what your guest ordered, cleanly cut the foil below the neck or second lip of the wine bottle. Make sure not to rotate spin the bottle when opening and remember to always keep the label facing the guest you are opening for.  Place foil in apron or pocket after removal.

4. Remove the cork. Use leverage when pulling the cork out and do your best not to make any popping sound when removing.  The serviette will help and should be used.

5. Gently pour 1 to 2 oz of wine in glass at a 45 degree angle and wait for guests approval.  Once approved, ask your guest if you would like to leave the cork or remove it from the table.  Do as requested.

6. Pour the next glass of wine, ladies first to the right or clockwise around the table and always finish with the person who ordered the bottle.  Make sure there is enough wine to pour if you have a party of 5 or more.  Make sure that your guests don’t pour their own wine.  This is your duty as a service provider.  Remember, the only exception is the last 1 to 3 oz remaining in the bottle.  Before you pour the rest of it, always ask the guest who ordered it if you can continue to finish pouring the last of the bottle.

Below are a couple of video tutorials on how to properly open wine and how NOT to.  Remember, the region of Yakima needs all of us to keep improving its restaurant etiquette and wine service because we are world class!

How to open a bottle of wine…

How to open a bottle of wine…

How NOT to open a bottle of wine…